It determines the Significant Wave Height, Peak Wave Period and the Limiting Factor for Wave Growth. It takes the Wind Speed, Duration and Fetch as inputs. The Wave Generation Calculator computes the mean wave parameters defining a sea state generated by a wind blowing with a specified strength and duration over a sea area. Go to List of variables to see a description of the input variables. The sediment type has no direct effect on wave breaking but it determines the beach slope that ultimately controls the wave breaking. The larger the angle of incidence, the larger the longshore component of the wave propagation direction. Accepted angle of incidence values are between 0 and 90 degrees. Note: The angle of incidence (in degrees) is the angle between the wave propagation direction and the perpendicular to the shoreline (in the example above the angle of incidence is: 315-270=45 degrees). Use the Surf Wave Calculator to know the breaking water depth and the other breaking wave parameters. During a north-west swell (315 degrees), the buoy records a Significant Wave Height of 2.5 m and a Peak Period of 9.5 s. INPUTSĮxample: A directional wave buoy is moored in front of a coarse-sand beach that has a West orientation (270 degrees) and, due to its morphology, can be considered longshore uniform. The Surf Wave Calculator will compute the output parameters (on the right). Introduce the required input parameters (on the left) and push the “Calculate!” button. The input parameters can proceed from measurements, model simulations, empirical estimations, etc… Finally it determines the following parameters at the breaking point: Breaking Wave Height, Breaking Water Depth, Breaking Wave Angle of Incidence, Iribarren number and Breaking Type. In addition, it needs the Sediment Type to deduce the beach profile. It takes the following wave parameters at the reference point: Significant Wave Height, Peak Period, Water Depth and Angle of Incidence. The Surf Wave Calculator propagates the sea state from a reference point offshore of the surf zone up to the breaking point. Note: Go to List of variables to see a description of the input variables. Use the Linear Wave Calculator to know the output sea state parameters. INPUTSĮxample: During an energetic swell, a wave buoy records a Significant Wave Height of 2.1 m and a Peak Period of 9.3 s.
The Linear Wave Calculator will compute the output parameters (on the right). Finally it determines the Mean Wave Length, Wave Celerity, Group Celerity, Relative Depth, Maximum Horizontal Velocity, Maximum Vertical Velocity, Mass Flux, Momentum flux and Energy flux. It takes the Significant Wave Height, the Peak Period and the Water Depth as inputs.
The Linear Wave Calculator computes the mean wave parameters of a sea state at a reference point offshore of the surf zone. Read the about page to know the working principles. The Wave Calculator incorporates well known wave theories and formulations to give fast solutions to simple wave problems.
In these cases, the Wave Calculator comes in handy. However, there are situations in which one needs a reasonably good estimation of a wave parameter and he/she does not have neither the time nor an adequate computer to run simulations. This means that wave model results are accurate and general but also expensive in terms of time and computational power.
Numerical wave models, like WW3, are able to simulate the time evolution of hydrodynamic processes over complex geometries.
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